What's your greatest challenge and fear when formulating skincare products. Mine-Age spots,stretchmarks, dark knuckles. I got this message yesterday and I became worried as well cos I know how she was feeling.

Sometimes,you get perplexed when the complaints come, you get confused. What are others doing that you ain't doing right? The organic formulators usually gets less of these complaints because they don't deal with serums or gels which are usually the problems. Some serums contain hydroquinone but do not state it. 


 If you use a good base cream, then you wouldn't have to add james and john into it. 

One thing I have learnt though is that one should use always organic and natural products to any formulation. They help in controlling adverse effects, toning the skin, preventing reactions or stretchmarks and help make the skin glow.

Add pharmaderm or hydrocortisone cream to treat or prevent reaction in cream.

You can add dermaclair too for the same purpose.

Use rose water, glycerine for fresh result.

Use tocophenol liquid to prevent stretch mark.

Add bravia anti-stretch marks gel or anti stretchmarks ampoules to your cream to prevent stretch mark.

These are some of my favorite additives in my skincare formulations. Use them and thank me later.


Some people have a preference for body washes and liquid soaps. Some simply do not like the idea of using their hands to scoop soap from jars or using bar soaps, hence the love for liquid soap. If you're a fan of black soap and intend making your own, here are different recipes to help you. You can pick a method depending on your preference. Here are some of my favorite methods.

1st Method
I call this method the overnight soaking method. I usually soak my black soap in floral waters or rice milk with glycerine and honey, over night when using this method.

Here is a basic recipe I use:


100g of Ghana black soap

50grams of herbs (preferred choice)

2 tbsp honey

2 tbsp whitening glycerine

4 oz sweet Almond oil

5  oz Jojoba Oil

2 Tbsps of Chamomile Flower 

2 Tbsps of Lavender Flower

1 tbsp shea butter

1 tbsp cocoa butter

Whitening Additives (optional)


Boil the water and make a tea with the flowers.

 Let it steep for 2-3hrs, then strain twice. Add the black soap and let it sit overnight. 

Then add the shea butter, cocoa butter, sweet almond oil,  jojoba oil, honey and glycerine to it. 

Mix well and store in a container. If mixing for a light skin person, add your preferred lightening/whitening agents. 



African Black Soap

Distilled Water/Aloe Vera
 Juice  NOT Gel (Blended With Water)

Large Bottle

1 Tsp of Vit E Oil


Crumble soap into a large bowl. 

Add aloe vera juice or boiling water into a bowl, add moisturizing properties (vit E oil). 

Mix together well and let it sit for few hours to allow it dissolve. 

Drive into a large bottle or containers of choice. Your liquid ABS is ready.


This method gives a pasty like texture

8 oz Avocado oil 

6 oz Castor oil 

8 oz Safflower oil 

10 oz Coconut oil 

10 oz Olive oil 

2 oz African black soap

9.4 oz Potassium Hydroxide 

27  oz Initial water for paste 

80 oz Water for dilution 


1) Make a solution with the water and potassium hydroxide

2) Add all oils to the cook pot along with ABS and melt. The ABS will not melt well, stick blend it until it gets as smooth as you can.

3) Add the solution and stick blend until you get a thick trace then stick blend a bit more

4) Turn the Crock pot onto medium heat and let it cook, if it separate while cooking, stick blend it back into submission

5) Stir and let it cook more for about 30mins more. Then starts adding your 40 oz of water gently. You can always add more water but you can't add all so that it will not be too watery (Boil your water before adding it will be nice and doesn't crock your soap)

After having the soap on warm for a couple of hours and stirring occassionally, add more time to cooking then strain it just invade it had any sediment from the ABS. 

Then add 2% lavender essential oil for scent. Lavender EO makes it thick, citrus EO act as solvents and makes it thin. Add 2.5% in total. Your liquid ABS is ready for use. 

Store in a container of choice.

Note: African Black Soap is different from Ghana Black Soap. It usually comes in a powdery form.

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So you've been having problems with your formulations,right? You keep asking, 'What are others doing. that I am doing wrong? 'Why do my clients keep complaining'..

Let me answer those questions

1.Lack of expertise- In all thy getting,get wisdom. It might be just the right time to go for further classes to hone your craft.New skincare ideas and technology are being introduced everyday. That your method might be outdated. Learn the new juice and scoop. Don't start using ten clobetasol tubes to achieve a whiter complexion.That's so old school. Learn the new mixes. There are some formulas that only top formulators in the country know about and the classes are really expensive. If you're within their locality, they won't teach you so as to limit their competition. But if you know what you want, then it isn't a bad idea to enroll for one.

2. The recipes are so wrong
Again,get the right knowledge. Don't rely on recipes.There are some classes you would take and you would end up knowing that there is a difference with chaff and shaft 😀. You would see some recipes telling you to add relaxers and all sorts. Please run for your life.Then you would see those telling you to add potash to Carowhite cream and all those Ajashe mixes.

 Get the pro stuff. However be careful. This is Naija. And charlatans abound. They will mix G & G in their backyard with God knows what, scoop up and call it Italian milk. And slap high prices on it. 

3 Lack of patience.
Good products cannot turn someone from black to white in one week. If someone tells you her products are safe from steroids and would change your colour from black to white in one week, the person is lying.  Some of you, buy so called organic soaps that have been mixed with Jik, bleach, relaxer , Tubes filled with steroids. And a lot. They tell you its 100% natural. But even you have to know its not. If not, why is it making you red??? Why are your customers complaining of redness?

When something whitens you that fast, your skin becomes prone to stretchmarks and green veins which I guess you don't want. Please, 2 weeks is not too long a time to wait for healthy skin. You can have that perfect milk white, that beautiful yellow, that gorgeous golden and the perfect cafe au lait brown. But you will need to give it more than 3 days.

4. Poor Quality Of Ingredients
Some people would come to me and start pricing powders as if I am selling pepper. Then they would start telling me about someone who sells at reduced prices at one popular market like that in Lagos State. My response- 'Please buy from her' 

Its so sad but a disturbing number of people that sell actives here in Nigeria are selling fake actives. Or actives with very low purity. You can use them, but they WILL NEVER EVER give you the same results as someone who's using high purity top grade actives. 99.9% Alpha arbutin (Highest purity) and 60% arbutin (low grade) will NOT give the same results. Use original and highest grade of everything. Period.

Now you know it, work on these steps and watch your clients bring back positive feedbacks. Do you have any contribution? Please comment below..

If you're interested in finding out how to make your formulations better or acquiring the right knowledge for your brandClick here